If you're looking for a luxury watch, you want a genuine product. There's something about a prestigious Swiss watch that can't be replicated. But, with long waiting lists for the latest models, buying second-hand might be the best way to get the watch you desire, but with that comes a risk. Producing and selling fakes is a big business. And, even worse, fakes are becoming more and more accurate, making it harder to tell the difference between a genuine watch and a fake one. Luckily, there are a few things to look for that will let you know you are buying the real deal, whether you are looking for a new luxury watch or a discontinued pre-owned model; here are the ways you can tell that the watch you are purchasing is genuine:
1. Do Your Research
First things first, if you're looking to buy a luxury watch and want to make sure you get a real watch, do your research. This is much easier if you know what model you are after, but if you're unsure which model, you can still gather some basic information about the brand and its watches. Know what the specifications are on the model you want or the brand in general. Familiarise yourself with logos, stamps and trademark designs.
You should also research the outlet that you are planning on buying your watch from. Are they a trustworthy retailer? How do they check their watches? What are their reviews like?
2. Think About Where You are Buying From
Don't think you're getting lucky with finding a rare pre-owned luxury watch in a common tourist spot or on Facebook Marketplace. Chances are, it's a fake. Only buy from somewhere that you know sells genuine watches, not from some random stranger.
If you are buying online, you also want to be extra careful. Buying a luxury watch online is safe and reliable if you know what to look for, such as the image quality and picture angles. Still, if you can see the watch in person, this is the best way to know if it is a genuine model.
And as we've said before, be sure to research where you are buying the watch from, their credentials and reviews.
3. If the Price Seems Too Good to be True, it Probably Is
You can occasionally get lucky with a great deal when buying a second-hand luxury watch, but generally, if the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Due to their quality and craftsmanship, luxury watches tend to hold their value if they are cared for. A good rule of thumb is to know the market value of the model you are looking at; if you are saving more than 25% of the market value, especially if the watch is in good condition, it's more than likely that you're looking at a fake.
4. Feel the Weight
Many fake luxury watches will use cheap materials to save on costs, which means counterfeits tend to be lighter than real luxury watches. A real watch is made from gold, stainless steel, and heavy metals or alloys, which are heavier and more sturdy than cheaper metals. This will be easier to spot if you have handled luxury watches before and have an idea of how they should feel in your hand.
5. Check the Materials
It's not just the weight that can let you know you have a real luxury watch. You should also check for hallmarks of authenticity on metal parts, such as the case and bracelet. When it comes to checking the bracelet, ensure it is flexible and glides smoothly onto your wrist.
In comparison, the material of a fake watch may feel rough on examination. So be sure to run your fingers all over the watch, feeling for any inconsistencies. A real watch will be smooth with no rough areas.
6. Check the Details
Luxury watches have gained their prestigious status for a reason, so their attention to detail is paramount. They are carefully designed and crafted, and there is no room for errors.
When looking at a luxury watch, whether second-hand or new, the proof that it is genuine is often in the minor details. Check the font, look for spelling mistakes, and inspect the logo and engravings. The errors in a fake can be small, but you can spot them if you know what a real one should have. Engravings may be shallow and irregular on a fake watch. More obvious mistakes are peeling paint, fading engravings and scratches. A genuine watch should have no errors, and if it has been well cared for, the wear and tear will be minimal too.
7. Listen to the Movement
When you are looking at a luxury watch, listen to it. A genuine watch will not tick or make any other sound. The watch mechanisms have been assembled carefully so that no noise is made. Fakes will not be made to this high standard, and so will make noise or tick.
You should also check what the movement looks like. In authentic watches, this will be smooth and gliding, whereas a fake will have a rougher movement.
8. Check the Crystal
Genuine watches use a sapphire crystal on the dial that is scratch-resistant and durable. The sapphire crystal top will also give a violet tint at a certain angle, so tilt the watch under a light to test for this when checking that a watch is genuine.
On the other hand, the watch dial of a fake watch may make the watch face appear hazy. If the dial can't be seen clearly, you are probably looking at a fake. Counterfeit watches will use low-quality glass or mineral crystal, which often has imperfections and will scratch easily.
You should also check the magnification of the cyclops (date window), which, on a real watch, will make it easy to read the date. Fake watches tend to have weaker magnification, making the date difficult to read.
9. Look for the Serial Number
Checking the serial number is one of the more obvious ways to ensure your watch is genuine. Each luxury watch has its own serial number, so a quick Google search will show you if the watch is listed for sale anywhere else; if it is, then at least one is fake. Fake watches are made in batches, so giving them all the same serial number is cheaper.
Each luxury watch brand will have its own place of where the serial number goes. For instance, Rolex watches have the serial number between the lugs, whereas Omega places it on the rear or inside the watch. So, research where the serial number is meant to be on the brand you are buying and check that it is in the correct place. This can be a good indication of a genuine watch that is easy to check.
10. Check for the Box and Papers
Another easy thing to check is if the watch you are buying has its original box and papers. If it does, the box should be sturdy and of good quality. The papers should be of high quality with no spelling mistakes. Even pre-owned watches can come with their original boxes and papers.
However, be aware that not all second-hand watches will have these, even if they are genuine. Boxes and papers may have been lost over time, especially for older models. But a good watch dealer can still check the authenticity without these. The boxes and papers can give you extra reassurance, but just because a second-hand watch doesn't have these doesn't mean it's fake. If you are buying from a reputable watch retailer and have been able to see the watch in person to check that it is genuine, the box and papers can just give extra reassurance but do not worry too much about these, especially if it is an older model that has gone through several owners.
What Watches Are Most Likely to be Faked?
In general, the more coveted the watch brand, the more likely it is to be faked, and faked well. Rolex watches are the most faked watch brand, followed by Cartier and Omega. It tends to be the well-known luxury watch brands that will have fakes and counterfeits made. So be extra vigilant when buying a watch from these brands to ensure you are getting a genuine model.
Genuine Second-Hand Watches with Ramsdens
Here at Ramsdens, we not only are reputable sellers regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority, but we have watch experts who check every watch that comes to us for authenticity. Shopping with us means you can be sure you can get a genuine second-hand watch. Furthermore, you are more than welcome to come into your nearest Ramsdens Jewellers to check your pre-owned watch in person and ask our experts any questions you may have. We take pride in our watches and will only ever stock pre-loved watches that we know are real.
The best way to ensure you are getting a real luxury watch is to buy it directly. However, this isn't always possible. Many brands have long waiting lists, or there may be a particular model you want that is now discontinued, and that's where buying second-hand can help you get what you want. There are many benefits to buying a second-hand watch, whether you are a casual wearer or a collector.
But when looking for a second-hand watch, be sure to check the above points to see if it is genuine. For more information on watches, check out our watch guides.