The Complete Guide To The Rolex Oyster Perpetual
With a long and prestigious history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual has been a staple collection within the Rolex brand name. Since 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has served as a foundation for all of their watches. Within this guide, we will take an in-depth look into the history of the Oyster Perpetual, the references and models, what styles you might find and more.
What Does Oyster Perpetual Mean?
To put it simply, ‘Oyster’ refers to the Oystersteel case, and ‘Perpetual’ refers to the perpetually self-winding rotor inside the watch. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch combines the two into one watch.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual History
The history of the Oyster Perpetual watch starts off before this specific model was released in 1926. It started with the invention of the Oyster case, which was both dust and water-resistant. The name comes from an oyster, which is sealed keeping ocean water in. Of course, Rolex Oystersteel cases did the opposite, keeping the water and dust out.
Rolex launched this case within the original Rolex Oyster in 1926, which was the first waterproof watch on the market and was even worn by British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze when swimming across the English Channel.
Then in 1931, Rolex invented the first self-winding movement, which used a weight to gently wind the watch as it was being worn on the wrist. This movement was named Perpetual as the watch could be perpetually wound. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual was then released in 1945 with the combination of the two inventions, the robust Oyster case with the self-winding movement.
Within the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection itself, the original No Date, launched in 1959 was always 36mm in size, but the Ladies Oyster Perpetual launched in 1964 with a smaller dial at 24.6mm. And in 1986, Rolex used Sapphire crystal for the first time within the Oyster Perpetual collection, which was added to the midsize model.
And then in 2014, Rolex introduced multiple sizes to the collection, bringing out the 26mm, 31mm, 34mm and 36mm. 2015 saw the addition of the 39mm to the line, and in 2020 Rolex updated the entire Oyster Perpetual collection and replaced the 26mm model with a 28mm version. And we saw the 39mm dial size replaced with a larger 41mm size.
Use of The Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Because the Oyster Perpetual watch was the first Rolex watch to combine the Oyster case with the Perpetual movement, it served as a foundation for most Rolex watches that followed. Therefore, it can be confusing with some of the other Rolex collections as the name is used as a prefix for many of its other watches to note the case and movement type.
In 1953, Oyster Perpetuals were on the Everest Expedition with Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, which lead to the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Explorer watch which celebrated the success of the expedition.
Rolex Oyster Perpetuals don’t have any additional features like date display, they just display with time with running seconds. But in 1956 brought this feature into this collection with the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Day-Date alongside the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss collections.
Today, you’ll find the Oyster Perpetual name used as a prefix which is used across almost every Rolex watch collection. The only collection that doesn’t see this attachment is the Rolex Cellini.
Current Rolex Oyster Perpetual References
Because of the Oyster Perpetual’s long history, and its use of the prefix in most of Rolex’s collections, there is a wide range of different references, models, and variations. And since Rolex’s complete change of the collection sizes in 2020, a lot of the older models have been discontinued today. However, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual references still in production are:
- Ref. 276200
- Ref. 277200
- Ref. 124200
- Ref. 126000
- Ref. 124300
You can find the current Oyster Perpetual models with the dial sizes as following: 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm.
Discontinued Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches
Throughout the history of Oyster Perpetual, there has been a lot of changes and a lot of the older watches have been discontinued. These include the references outside of the above current models with these dial sizes:
- 24mm
- 26mm
- 39mm
However, since its launch in 2020, the Oyster Perpetual Ref. 124300 have also seen some discontinued models. This update saw brightly coloured Stella-inspired dials which came from the popular dials found on 1970s Day-Date models. These Oyster Perpetual coloured models were found in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm sizes and included dial colours Coral Red, Candy Pink, Turquoise blue, Green, and Yellow. Many of these Oyster Perpetual models were discontinued around 2022. These watches, including the popular Tiffany blue Oyster Perpetual 41mm is extremely hard to find on the market now.
Popular Oyster Perpetual Models
From current to older discontinued models, here at Ramsdens we sell pre-owned models so you can find a wide range of references and models on the market. Here’s some popular types that you might find.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Bubbleback”: the older and vintage Oyster Perpetuals of the 1940’s and 50’s are often called bubblebacks or semi-bubblebacks, to note their bulged case backs. This is because with the older models Rolex added an automatic rotor instead of a manually wound. Found in dial sizes of 32-34mm, these older Oyster Perpetual models come in a wide range of variations.
Rolex “Ovettone” Oyster Perpetual: Also known as “little egg”, was made in several references and came after the “Bubbleback”. It featured a 36mm case which was quite large for the time period, but today is the new normal. These Oyster Perpetuals are quite rare and expensive to find – especially the ref. 6298 also called the “pre-Explorer”.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date: This model has a numerous reference and was introduced in the mid-1950’s. The Date models aren’t to be confused with the DateJust models from 1945, the key difference is that the latter snaps the date wheel into place just before midnight and the dial size is bigger than the former’s 34mm.
Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1018: Produced in the 1960s for a few years, this Oyster Perpetual 36mm is extremely rare and is similar to Explorer models.
Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002: Produced in the 1960’s, it included a chronometer certified movement, smooth bezel, and a silver or gilt black dial. Occasionally a linen or mosaic version was made, but since it was in production for over 20 years, a range of dials and handsets can be found.
Oyster Perpetual Ref. 116000: This is a very popular model and, on some versions, the dial also features an Arabic 3-6-9 numbering. In addition to different indexing, this Rolex Oyster can be found with a blue, grape, black or silver dials. This model is discontinued however you can find the modern version (ref. 126000) on the market.
Oyster Perpetual Ref. 114300: Boasting a 39mm case, this Oyster Perpetual was launched in 2018 and features a stark-white dial alongside blue, grey and black models.
Oyster Perpetual 34 Ref. 124200: Available in one of four dial options – black, rose, blue, and silver, this model is a take on the classic design. Featuring single-stick markets, smaller format and sleek fit.
Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000: This modern 36mm is considered to be the perfect model, similar to the discontinued ref. 116000, it features dual markets, all-steel construction, and indential dial colour options.
Oyster Perpetual Ref. 277200: This model is the 2020 updated version of the ref. 177200 women’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch with new coloured dial options including red, blue, green and yellow and features all index hour markers.
Oyster Perpetual 41 Ref. 124300: Another 2020 release, this Oyster Perpetual model is the largest to date, with a 41mm case. Giving a more modern-sporty wear, this model is available in all of the new dial colours. This modern watch has double-markets a 3,6, and 9 which isn’t found on all recent models, and boasts the impressive Superlative Chronometer rating of +2/-2 seconds per day. Since release however, most of this model’s coloured dials have been discontinued and are harder to find.
Oyster Perpetual Features and Options
Within the Oyster Perpetual models there’s been a lot of references, refreshes and updates throughout the years so there is a lot of different styles available. However, one thing that hasn’t changed is the timeless designs, sleek elegance and use of the durable Oyster case and Perpetual movement.
However, the movement did receive an update in the 36 and 41mm models, still having a self-winding movement, just powered by the in-house caliber 3239. This boasts a magnetic Parachrom spring and a 70-hour power reserve. Smaller models still feature the caliber 2232 with a silicon balance spring and a 55-hour power reserve.
Although the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is known for a simple dial with no date display, there are changes to the dial over the years. With different colours being released, to even the release of the Oyster Perpetual Date, Day-Date and Date-Just models, which added the date display.
The case sizes have been the biggest variation to the Oyster Perpetual collections with the original being the bulkier 36mm case, but we have also seen the now discontinued sizes of 24mm, 26mm and 39mm. As well as the 28mm, 31mm, 24mm, and 41mm cases.
The materials found in the Oyster Perpetual watches can vary. For example, older versions can be found in solid gold and two-tone versions, whereas the current versions can be found in stainless Oystersteel.
Oyster Perpetual bezels for older models you can find fluted and engine-turned bezels with a variety of styles depending on the model. But newer modern versions are fitted with smooth stainless steel bezels to match the material.
Bracelet wise, you can find Jubilee bracelets and leather straps on most of the discontinued models, and Oyster bracelets in the same metal as the rest of the watch in newer models.
How Much Is A Rolex Oyster Perpetual?
Depending on the model and size of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, pricing ranges from about £3,000 to £8,000. The Oyster Perpetual is the brand’s most accessible entry-level watch meaning it’s the perfect watch for collectors as it can be styled in dressy or casual environments.
Buying pre-owned Oyster Perpetual watches is a great way to find cheaper and more affordable models, from both newer and discontinued references.
Is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual A Good Investment?
Simple answer is yes. Rolex as a brand holds a lot of value, however it does depend on the model that you buy. The Oyster Perpetual models are one of the oldest names in Rolex’s catalogue and has also been used as a prefix for many of their collections.
The newer and modern Oyster Perpetual watches are more of an investment than other models. 2020 was a big year for Oyster Perpetual, with an updated line which stole headlines from Submarier, we saw the largest model in lineup, the 41mm. Alongside some vibrant dial versions of ref. 124300 and the 36mm ref. 126000.
The Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300 was recently discontinued and offers a lot of investment potential, as this watch can be found in the 39mm size and is considered to be a sweet spot in terms of size for collectors.
Lastly, another good model for investment is the ref. 116000, which is the previous 36mm generation. Although they lack the newer generations of movements and the lugs are slightly larger than the current model, it’s popular among collectors.
How To Tell If A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Is Real
With buying any luxury watch it’s right to be dubious and over-cautious, especially with spending so much money. When shopping for a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, always look at the details to verify that the watch is genuine and you’re not going to end up with a fake Rolex.
Look for the serial number, which is engraved on every Rolex watch and is usually on the side of the case. Other signs to look out for are the Rolex logo, the metal case back, movements, design and dial quality, as well the box and papers. Rolex spends so much time making and testing that watches so a real Oyster Perpetual would be up to their high standards.
Our biggest advice is to make sure you do your research and buy from a trusted and reputable seller. At Ramsdens Jewellery, all our a Rolex watches, like the Oyster Perpetual, are tested for quality and verified by our watch experts before even available to buy, so you know you are getting a genuine timepiece. As well, most of our watches come with their original box and papers for that extra piece of mind. For any questions you may have about Rolex or Air-King, feel free to contact us, we’d love to help.