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The Rolex GMT Master Guide
Rolex is known for two types of watches, "classic" and "professional". "Classic" watches are the dress watches of the brand, whereas "professional" are watches designed with a profession in mind. The Rolex GMT Master is in the "professional" category, originally designed for pilots. The Rolex GMT has a variety of features and designs, so collectors crave to have this watch in their collection. The key feature of the Rolex GMT is that it allows the wearer to simultaneously reference two different time zones. The name, GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, which is also known as Coordinated Universal Time, which is the time zone used for all aviation weather forecasts, planning and schedules. In this Rolex GMT guide we'll go through the history of this popular Rolex model, its features and popular references.GMT Watches
In the 1950s, Rolex released some of its most iconic professional watches, including the GMT Master pilot's watch. The Rolex GMT Master was developed when Pan Am requested a dual-time watch for their pilots and crews on long-haul flights.
The first Rolex GMT Master was the ref. 6542, which was released in 1955. This reference had an Oyster case with a 50-metre depth rating. This reference ran for 5 years. During this time, the GMT Master was powered by three movements; Calibre 1036, 1065 and 1066.
Small changes, such as the case size increasing to 40mm, and the addition of crown guards saw the ref. 1675 introduced in 1959. This was the first time a COSC-rated movement was used in the series.
Next came the ref. 16750 in 1981. This reference had a Calibre 3075 with a Quickset function. This meant that the date mechanism could be changed without rotating the crown for a full 24 hours; the first instance of this in the GMT Master series.
1982 saw the introduction of the GMT Master II. In this series, the GMT hand was independent of the standard 12-hour hand. This feature required a fatter case, so the first reference (ref. 16760) gained a couple of nicknames, including "Fat Lady", among collectors.
Over the next few years, the case and movement were refined, and so the sleeker ref. 16710 was released in the late 1980s. This GMT Master II reference had a newly-independent 24-hour hand, making it a great success. The ref. 16710 was on the market for roughly 20 years, being discontinued around 2007.
The first Rolex GMT Master was the ref. 6542, which was released in 1955. This reference had an Oyster case with a 50-metre depth rating. This reference ran for 5 years. During this time, the GMT Master was powered by three movements; Calibre 1036, 1065 and 1066.
Small changes, such as the case size increasing to 40mm, and the addition of crown guards saw the ref. 1675 introduced in 1959. This was the first time a COSC-rated movement was used in the series.
Next came the ref. 16750 in 1981. This reference had a Calibre 3075 with a Quickset function. This meant that the date mechanism could be changed without rotating the crown for a full 24 hours; the first instance of this in the GMT Master series.
1982 saw the introduction of the GMT Master II. In this series, the GMT hand was independent of the standard 12-hour hand. This feature required a fatter case, so the first reference (ref. 16760) gained a couple of nicknames, including "Fat Lady", among collectors.
Over the next few years, the case and movement were refined, and so the sleeker ref. 16710 was released in the late 1980s. This GMT Master II reference had a newly-independent 24-hour hand, making it a great success. The ref. 16710 was on the market for roughly 20 years, being discontinued around 2007.
The final reference (ref. 16700) of the original GMT Master series was introduced in 1988. This model and the GMT Master II ran alongside each other before the Master II replaced the original design com-pletely when the ref. 16700 was discontinued in 1999.
Rolex GMT Master II
The contemporary GMT Master II that is known today was introduced in the mid-2000s. There were a few references in this series, so it is known collectively as the ref. 1167xx. This series had a new case which is a bit larger than the previous references, with larger hands and hour markers, thicker lugs and bigger crown guards. This case earned the name "Super Case" by many collectors. There were a few firsts in this series too, for instance, the ref. 116710BLNR was the first Rolex to feature a black and blue ceramic bezel insert.
Rolex GMT Master II
The contemporary GMT Master II that is known today was introduced in the mid-2000s. There were a few references in this series, so it is known collectively as the ref. 1167xx. This series had a new case which is a bit larger than the previous references, with larger hands and hour markers, thicker lugs and bigger crown guards. This case earned the name "Super Case" by many collectors. There were a few firsts in this series too, for instance, the ref. 116710BLNR was the first Rolex to feature a black and blue ceramic bezel insert.
Rolex GMT-Master Features & Options
Since being released in the 1950s, the Rolex GMT Master has undergone several changes and modifications. The series includes a variety of bezel types, material options and dial colours, yet it still retains the original design ethos. These options include:
Metal Options
Depending on the Rolex GMT Master reference, you may find:
- Stainless Steel - durable and versatile, the Rolex GMT Master debuted with stainless steel, called "Oystersteel" by Rolex.
- Gold - current GMT Master II references are available in either 18k rose gold (Everose) or 18k white gold. You can find GMT Masters with 18k yellow gold in older mod-els, such as the discontinued ref. 116718.
- Two-Tone - this refers to having both gold and stainless steel. Two-tone GMT Masters are generally more affordable than all-gold alternatives. The current GMT Mas-ter II is available in Everose Rolesor (Everose gold and Oystersteel). Older references, such as ref. 16713, are available in two-tone steel and yellow gold.
Bezel Options
The bezel of the Rolex GMT Master has a variety of material and colour options available. Bezel materials available are:
- Bakelite - the first GMT Master had a Bakelite bezel. Bakelite is an early form of plastic.
- Aluminium - this metal quickly replaced Bakelite as the bezel material and remained the go-to for decades.
- Cerachrom - also known as ceramic, is the only bezel option in the cur-rent series. Cerachrom is tougher and more lustrous than aluminium.
When it comes to bezel colours, there are five iconic colours available:
Pepsi - arguably the most iconic of the bezel options in the Rolex GMT Master series, Pepsi has a two-tone finish to distinguish between day and night with a red and blue insert. Red and blue were chosen to mimic the brand colours of the Pan Am airline. Almost every stainless steel GMT Master has a Pepsi bezel option, and this colour is currently available in ref. 126710 and ref. 126719
Coke - like Pepsi, Coke uses the bezel to distinguish between day and night. Coke uses a red and black insert for this. References with a Coke bezel option include ref. 16710 and 16760.
Root Beer - using a brown and gold insert, the Root Beer bezel is a unique option. This bezel colour is currently in production in ref. 126715 and ref. 126711.
Batman - the first black and blue Cerachom ceramic bezel was released in this series in 2013 and earnt the nickname "Batman".
Black - for a versatile bezel, all black is the go-to. However, this bezel op-tion is not currently in production and was last produced in ref. 116710LN.
Bracelet Options
There are two bracelet options in the Rolex GMT Master series. The first is the Oyster bracelet, which is Rolex's most common bracelet design. Recognisable by its flat, three-piece links, the Oyster bracelet is commonly associated with professional series watches by Rolex.
With five-piece links, the Jubilee bracelet is the dressier bracelet choice. The GMT Master was the first sports watch to have this iconic bracelet option.
Pepsi - arguably the most iconic of the bezel options in the Rolex GMT Master series, Pepsi has a two-tone finish to distinguish between day and night with a red and blue insert. Red and blue were chosen to mimic the brand colours of the Pan Am airline. Almost every stainless steel GMT Master has a Pepsi bezel option, and this colour is currently available in ref. 126710 and ref. 126719
Coke - like Pepsi, Coke uses the bezel to distinguish between day and night. Coke uses a red and black insert for this. References with a Coke bezel option include ref. 16710 and 16760.
Root Beer - using a brown and gold insert, the Root Beer bezel is a unique option. This bezel colour is currently in production in ref. 126715 and ref. 126711.
Batman - the first black and blue Cerachom ceramic bezel was released in this series in 2013 and earnt the nickname "Batman".
Black - for a versatile bezel, all black is the go-to. However, this bezel op-tion is not currently in production and was last produced in ref. 116710LN.
Bracelet Options
There are two bracelet options in the Rolex GMT Master series. The first is the Oyster bracelet, which is Rolex's most common bracelet design. Recognisable by its flat, three-piece links, the Oyster bracelet is commonly associated with professional series watches by Rolex.
With five-piece links, the Jubilee bracelet is the dressier bracelet choice. The GMT Master was the first sports watch to have this iconic bracelet option.
Lume Options
As Lume options developed, the GMT Master changed the Lume used. Therefore, there are now five Lume options:Radium - radium Lume was used by Rolex until the 1960s when it was swapped for tritium due to health concerns surrounding the radioactive material.
Tritium - also radioactive, but not as harmful as radium, tritium was used as the Lume option until the late 1990s.
LumiNova - Rolex moved to photoluminescent Lume, rather than radioactive, with LumiNova. This Lume was used from 1998 until 2000.
Super-LumiNova - replacing LumiNova in 2000, Super-LumiNova is another photoluminescent option.
Chromalight - another photoluminescent, Chromalight replaced Super-LumiNova in 2008. This photoluminescent Lume glows blue instead of green, which, according to Rolex, makes it easier to read the watch in dim lighting. During the day, this Lume is stark white.
Dial Options
There are two notable dial options within the Rolex GMT Master series. Firstly, the Maxi dial has wider hands and the indices are larger. The second dial option is known as the "nipple" dial. This dial is set with applied round hour markers in precious metal. However, this dial option was discontinued years ago and GMT Master watches with this dial are now coveted as collector's items.
Is a Rolex GMT Master a Good Investment?
As Rolex is a sought-after luxury brand, its watches tend to hold their value, or even appreciate. Therefore, a Rolex GMT Master is likely to be a good investment. As there are unique and rare discontinued models, and ever-popular current references, a GMT Master can make a good investment.Popular Rolex GMT Master Watches
The Rolex GMT Master is a popular timepiece. With its iconic history and unique style, this Rolex series is coveted by collectors, as well as being a beautiful watch to wear. Some of the popular references include:
Rolex GMT Master 6542
The original in the GMT Master series, the ref. 6542 is a piece of history. Featuring on the wrist of Pussy Galore in the film Goldfinger has made this a much-loved watch of James Bond fans and collectors alike. As this GMT Master was only produced for a few years, it is a rare find.
This reference has several older features that aren't found in newer models. The Bakelite bezel and radium graduations were replaced in later references of this series. Those GMT Masters that have the original Bakelite bezel are some of the rarest in the GMT Master collection. Even rarer is the GMT Master ref. 6542 Pan Am specific model, this was issued only to ground staff and featured a special edition white face.
This is also the only GMT Master to display the depth rating. As this was a pilot's watch, the depth rating wasn't an important feature and so was lost in subsequent references.
Rolex GMT Master II 16713 Two-Tone
The yellow gold and stainless steel two-tone GMT Masters are only available in older models, as this metal option has been discontinued in the series. Because of this, the Rolex GMT Master II ref. 16713 two-tone is often valued higher than stainless steel models in the same generation.
Available with either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, the two-tone has 18k yellow gold centre links surrounded by stainless steel, and a gold bezel mounting, making the ref. 16713 an eye-catching timepiece.
Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLRO
As the youngest reference in the GMT Master family, the Rolex GMT Master II ref. 126710 brings together years of history and design changes to make a stunning watch. With a stainless steel Jubilee bracelet and the Chromalight Maxi dial, this reference is a beautiful modern wristwatch.
For the first time since the ref. 16710, the Pepsi bezel on stainless steel is available as the ref. 126710BLRO. This has been long-awaited as Pepsi is the GMT Master's most iconic colour combination. The bezel is now crafted from Cerachrom instead of aluminium.
The design of the ref.126710BLRO returned the Pepsi bezel to its professional watch roots, but this reference also had an upgrade. For the first time, the GMT Master II series included the new Calibre 3285. The GMT Master II 126710BLRO is the perfect blend of iconic looks and modern time-keeping technology.
The yellow gold and stainless steel two-tone GMT Masters are only available in older models, as this metal option has been discontinued in the series. Because of this, the Rolex GMT Master II ref. 16713 two-tone is often valued higher than stainless steel models in the same generation.
Available with either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, the two-tone has 18k yellow gold centre links surrounded by stainless steel, and a gold bezel mounting, making the ref. 16713 an eye-catching timepiece.
Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLRO
As the youngest reference in the GMT Master family, the Rolex GMT Master II ref. 126710 brings together years of history and design changes to make a stunning watch. With a stainless steel Jubilee bracelet and the Chromalight Maxi dial, this reference is a beautiful modern wristwatch.
For the first time since the ref. 16710, the Pepsi bezel on stainless steel is available as the ref. 126710BLRO. This has been long-awaited as Pepsi is the GMT Master's most iconic colour combination. The bezel is now crafted from Cerachrom instead of aluminium.
The design of the ref.126710BLRO returned the Pepsi bezel to its professional watch roots, but this reference also had an upgrade. For the first time, the GMT Master II series included the new Calibre 3285. The GMT Master II 126710BLRO is the perfect blend of iconic looks and modern time-keeping technology.
Buying a Rolex GMT Master
The Rolex GMT Master is an iconic and historic watch. Made for pilots, the watch is practical and stylish, without being too flashy. Throughout the generations of GMT Master watches, the timepieces have evolved and changed, whilst sticking to their roots of being a pilot's watch.
Whether you buy new or secondhand will depend on the look you want. There are a number of references in the Rolex GMT series that are discontinued, and certain features and styles are not available in the current references.
At Ramsdens, we offer quality pre-owned watches, all of which go through rigorous checks to ensure they are authentic and in working condition. Our range often features a number of pre-owned Rolex GMT Masters to choose from.
The Rolex GMT Master is an iconic and historic watch. Made for pilots, the watch is practical and stylish, without being too flashy. Throughout the generations of GMT Master watches, the timepieces have evolved and changed, whilst sticking to their roots of being a pilot's watch.
Whether you buy new or secondhand will depend on the look you want. There are a number of references in the Rolex GMT series that are discontinued, and certain features and styles are not available in the current references.
At Ramsdens, we offer quality pre-owned watches, all of which go through rigorous checks to ensure they are authentic and in working condition. Our range often features a number of pre-owned Rolex GMT Masters to choose from.
Rolex GMT Watches