How to Spot Authentic Vintage Jewellery: A Buyer’s Guide

Understanding Hallmarks: The Key to Authenticity

Why Hallmarks Matter

Hallmarks are the most reliable indicator of a piece’s age, origin, and metal purity. British jewellery has been legally required to carry hallmarks since the 13th century, making them an essential authentication tool.

How to Read British Hallmarks

A full British hallmark typically includes:

• Sponsor’s Mark (Maker’s initials or symbol)
• Metal Purity (e.g., "375" for 9ct gold, "750" for 18ct gold, "925" for sterling silver)
• Assay Office Mark (Indicates where it was tested – e.g., an anchor for Birmingham, a leopard’s head for London)
• Date Letter (A letter in a specific font that corresponds to a year)

Example: A ring stamped with "750," a leopard’s head, and the date letter "M" in a particular font could be verified as 18ct gold, assayed in London in a specific year.

Related: Hallmark PDF

What If There Are No Hallmarks?

Some vintage jewellery may lack full hallmarks due to:

• Being made before standardisation (pre-1900s)
• Originating from a country with different marking systems (e.g., Italian or French jewellery)
• Having been resized or repaired, causing the marks to wear off

At Ramsdens, we carefully assess each piece, using hallmarks (where present) alongside other authentication methods to confirm its vintage status.

Authentic vintage jewellery will show natural wear consistent with its age. Here’s what to look for:

Patina & Tarnish

• Older gold develops a soft, slightly darkened finish over time.
• Silver tarnishes naturally, and while polishing removes this, some crevice oxidation is normal.
• Older clasps (e.g., bolt rings, box clasps) may feel slightly looser from decades of use.
• Threading on screw-back earrings may show slight wear.
• Catch mechanisms on brooches should align correctly but may have minor imperfections.

Wear on Clasps, Hinges & Findings

• Older clasps (e.g., bolt rings, box clasps) may feel slightly looser from decades of use.
• Threading on screw-back earrings may show slight wear.
• Catch mechanisms on brooches should align correctly but may have minor imperfections.

Handmade vs. Machine-Made Details

• Pre-1960s jewellery was often hand-finished, so slight irregularities (e.g., uneven engraving, handmade chain links) can indicate authenticity.
• Mass-produced modern pieces tend to have perfect uniformity.

At Ramsdens, we appreciate the character of genuine vintage jewellery, so we never over-polish pieces to look brand new—preserving their history is part of their charm.

Gemstones in Vintage Jewellery: Natural vs. Treated

Many vintage pieces feature natural gemstones, which differ from modern lab-grown alternatives. Here’s how to assess them:

Identifying Natural Gemstones

• Inclusions & Imperfections – Natural stones often have tiny flaws (visible under magnification).
• Cut & Setting Style – Older stones were cut by hand, so facets may not be perfectly symmetrical.
• Closed-Back Settings – Common in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery, these enhance colour but can hide damage.
• Heat Treatment – Used for centuries to enhance ruby and sapphire colour.
• Oil-Treated Emeralds – A traditional method to minimise visible cracks.
• Glass-Filled Repairs – Sometimes used to stabilise cracked stones in antique pieces.

Common Vintage Gemstone Treatments

We ensure all gemstones in our vintage jewellery are accurately described, so you know exactly what you’re buying.

Recognising Period Styles: A Quick Guide

Certain designs are iconic of specific eras. Knowing these can help spot authentic vintage pieces:

Victorian (1837-1901)

• Romantic motifs – Snakes, flowers, hearts, and mourning jewellery.
• Materials – 15ct-18ct gold, silver, coral, jet, and garnets.
• Techniques – Hand-engraving, repoussé work, and cannetille (fine wirework).

Art Nouveau (1890-1915)

• Nature-inspired designs – Flowing lines, enamelled flowers, and nymph motifs.
• Materials – Opals, moonstones, plique-à-jour enamel, and horn.

Art Deco (1920s-1930s)

• Geometric shapes – Bold lines, symmetrical patterns, and Egyptian influences.
• Materials – Platinum, diamonds, onyx, and vibrant gemstones like emeralds and rubies.

Retro (1940s-1950s)

• Chunky, bold designs – Oversized cocktail rings, flexible gold bracelets, and patriotic motifs (e.g., flags during WWII).
• Materials – Rose gold, citrine, amethyst, and synthetic rubies.

If a piece claims to be from a particular era but doesn’t match typical designs, it may not be authentic. Our experts at Ramsdens assess each item’s style to confirm its vintage status.

Common Vintage Jewellery Red Flags

While many vintage pieces are genuine, some warning signs suggest otherwise:

Too Perfect Condition

• Excessive polishing that removes all patina may indicate a replica.
• Modern clasps or findings on a supposedly antique piece.

Mismatched Hallmarks

• Stamps that look freshly engraved rather than aged.
• Incorrect metal purity for the claimed era (e.g., "925" on a piece sold as Victorian silver, when "Sterling" was more common then).

Unusually Low Pricing

• If a deal seems too good to be true, it often is.

At Ramsdens, we thoroughly inspect every piece in our collection, so you can buy with confidence.

Why Buy Vintage Jewellery from a Trusted Seller?

Purchasing from an established jeweller like Ramsdens ensures:

✔ Accurate Dating & Authentication – Our experts verify hallmarks, gemstones, and period-appropriate design.

✔ Fair Pricing – No inflated "antique" premiums or hidden flaws.

✔ Professional Cleaning & Care – We ensure each piece is wearable while preserving its vintage charm.

Thinking of Buying or Selling Vintage Jewellery?

Whether you’re searching for a genuine vintage treasure or looking to sell a pre-owned piece, Ramsdens Jewellery offers expert valuations and a curated selection of authenticated vintage jewellery.

Visit us in-store or browse online today to discover timeless pieces with real history.