The Rolex Datejust Guide

Does a Rolex Datejust Hold Value?

Datejust is still currently produced and remains a popular watch. It is one of the most successful Rolex watches. Due to older models' rich history and appealing character, older, discontinued models are often sought after by collectors, and so can make a good return on investment. In fact, the Rolex Datejust has steadily increased in value for 100 years.

A Brief History of the Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust has over 70 years of rich history, with changes in design and landmark features being prominent throughout. First introduced in 1945, the same year as the end of World War II, the Datejust was the world's first self-winding chronometer wristwatch that displayed the date of the month using a window on the dial. This was ground-breaking and is used today in the vast majority of date-displaying watches.

Two previous Rolex innovations were combined when creating the Datejust; the 1926 waterproof Oyster case and the 1931 self-winding Perpetual movement. The first Datejust (ref. 4467) was crafted in yellow gold, and over the years Rolex modified the Datejust, adding features and details that soon became essential to the design.

In 1953, the Cyclops lens was added on the surface of the glass, just above the date. This improved legibility and has been an essential feature to the Datejust since. Then, in 1954, the "Turn-O-Graph" model was added to the Datejust collection. This model featured a rotating timing bezel, which eventually paved the way for the US Air Force Thunderbird squadron to choose the Datejust Turn-O-Graph as their official watch.

The next important adjustment was made in 1957, which was when the date mechanism was updated to instantly change to the next day at midnight (older models rolled slowly over a few hours). This year also saw the introduction of the Lady-Datejust (ref. 65XX), which became Rolex's best-selling model ever made.

1977 saw the Oysterquartz Datejust (ref. 17000) introduced. These models run using quartz calibres. Rolex created this quartz movement to compete with the growing popularity of Japanese quartz watches.

Throughout the 2000s, Rolex continued to make more Datejust designs and still does today. In 2008, the larger Datejust II (ref. 1163XX) was introduced. Then in 2016, Datejust 41 (ref. 1263XX) replaced Datejust II as the larger option.

Rolex Datejust Key Features

As an iconic watch, the Datejust has some key features to its design. Much of the design has remained mostly unchanged throughout its history, and some of its key features have been adapted to the rest of the Rolex collection. Some of the features that make the Datejust are:

- Automatic date change

- Waterproof Oyster case

- Cyclops magnification lens

- Date window

- Decorative bezel

Rolex Datejust Options

As well as having key features that make the Rolex Datejust, there are options when it comes to the design. Some of these have been discontinued, others are only available in certain Datejust models, and some are still going strong.

Datejust Bracelets

- Three-link Oyster

- Five-link Jubilee

- Leather strap (discontinued)

- Three-link President (Lady-Datejust and midsize models only)

- Integrated Jubilee and Oyster (Oysterquartz only, and discontinued)

Datejust Materials

- Gold (yellow, white or everose)

- Stainless steel

- Two-tone

- White Rolesor (stainless steel with white gold bezel

- Yellow Rolesor (yellow gold and stainless steel

- Everose Rolesor (rose gold and stainless steel)

- Platinum (Lady-Datejust and midsize models only)

- Gem-set

Bezels
- Fluted
- Gem-set
- Smooth
- Rotating Turn-O-Graph (discontinued)
- Engine-turned (discontinued)

Sizes
- Lady-Datejust: 26mm (discontinued) and 28mm
- Midsize Datejust: 31mm
- Datejust 36
- Datejust II: 41mm (discontinued)
- Datejust 41

Currently, there are four main models in the Rolex Datejust collection: Datejust 31 (ref. 68XXX), Datejust 36 (ref. 1262XX), Datejust 41 (1263XX) and Lady-Datejust 28 (ref. 279160 and 279174). Discontinued models can still be found as pre-owned watches.

Related Article: The Discontinued Rolex Guide.

Generations of Rolex Datejust

Throughout its history, the Datejust has had movement and aesthetic upgrades, and this iconic design is continuously improving. Here are the different generations and their features:

Four Digit Rolex Datejust

Datejust 36 - Reference Numbers: 4XXX, 5XXX, 61XX, 63XX

These are the earliest Datejust models and include the original model. Released between the mid-1940s and mid-1950s, these early models had domed case backs to accommodate the movement, earning them the nickname "bubble backs". Other common features include:

- Caliber 740 automatic movement
- Progressive date change mechanism
- Radium lume
- "Roulette" date wheel (alternating red and black numerals)
- 36mm case

Datejust 36 - Reference Numbers: 66XX

Production of these models started around 1957 and introduced a slimmer silhouette and a flatter case back to the Datejust design, which is common to the design today. The Cyclops lens was added to the acrylic crystal in this generation of Datejust, which made the date more legible. Other common features include:

- Caliber 1065 automatic movement
- Instantaneous date change mechanism
- Radium lume
- "Datejust" name on the dial
- 36mm case

DateJust 36 - Reference Numbers: 16XX

This generation of Datejust was equipped with a new movement, which has the "hacking" function from 1972 (the second hand can be set with the minutes and hours). Produced from 1959 to 1977. This generation of the Datejust 36 has some of the most popular and affordable vintage models available today. Common features include:

- Caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movement
- Models from 1963 have tritium lume (models before retained radium lume)
- 36mm case

Five Digit Rolex Datejust

Datejust 36 - Reference Numbers: 160XX

Featuring a quickset date function (this is where the date display can be adjusted without having to adjust the time display), this generation of Datejust 36 is a popular preowned model. The practical quickset date function is paired with vintage designs. This generation was launched in 1977 and ran for about 10 years. Common features include:

- Caliber 3035 automatic movement
- Acrylic crystal with Cyclops lens
- Tritium lume
- 36mm case

Datejust Oysterquartz - Reference Numbers: 17XXX, 19XXX, 191XX

This sub-collection of Datejust watches was Rolex's answer to the Quartz Revolution and the only instance of quartz watches within the brand. Launched in 1977 and discontinued in the early 2000s, this collection had features that were unique within the Datejust range. Common features include:

- Caliber 5035 quartz movement
- Quickset date
- Models from the mid-1990s have LumiNova lume, those before have tritium lume
- Sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens
- Integrated Oyster and Jubilee bracelets available
- 36mm angular case

Datejust 36 - Reference Numbers: 162XX

Launched in 1988, the Datejust 36 162XX series had some major upgrades from previous models. One such upgrade was the use of scratch-resistant sapphire crystals to protect the dial. The tritium luminescence was also replaced, and higher-grade steel was used in models that used this metal. This generation of Datejust 36 was discontinued in the mid-2000s. Common features include:

- Caliber 3135 automatic movement
- Quickset date
- Early models have tritium lume, from the mid-1990s models have LumiNova, and from 2000 models have Super-LumiNova
- Sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens
- 36mm case

Six Digit Rolex Datejust
Datejust 36 - Reference Numbers: 1162XX

The mid-200s saw a redesign of Datejust cases. Whilst retaining the same movement, the cases now feature fatter lugs, polished centre links, solid end-links and Easylink clasps. This generation was discontinued in 2009. Common features include:

- Caliber 3135 automatic movement
- Quickset date
- Super-LumiNova lume
- Sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens
- 36mm case with redesigned lugs

Datejust II - Reference Numbers: 1163XX

Running from 2009 to 2015, the Datejust II was introduced due to the growing popularity of larger watches. This was the first time that Rolex's made another men's Datejust size alongside the 36mm versions. The Datejust II also has thicker lugs and wider bezels and was only available with Oyster bracelets. Common features include:

- Caliber 3136 automatic movement
- Quickset date
- Combination of green Super-LumiNova and blue Chromalight lume
- Sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens
- 41mm case

Datejust 41 - Reference Numbers: 1263XX

Launched in 2016, the Datejust 41 replaced the Datejust II in the Rolex Datejust collection. Considered more elegant, the Datejust 41 has smaller proportions that are similar to the classic Datejust. This model is available with Oyster or Jubilee bracelets. Common features include:

- Caliber 3235 automatic movement
- Quickset date
- Chromalight lume
- Sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens
- 72-hour power reserve
- 41mm case

Datejust 36 - Reference Numbers: 1262XX

Rolex updated its Datejust 36 collection in 2018. Maintaining the traditional 36mm size of the original Datejust, this generation had updated movement and improved performance, with an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. Common features include:

- Caliber 3235 automatic movement
- Quickset date
- Chromalight lume
- Sapphire crystal
- 36mm case

Buying a Rolex Datejust

Whether you are buying secondhand or new, the Datejust is an iconic and historic watch. All of the models are versatile and can be worn with anything and so is often a daily companion and not just for special occasions. Even though the different generations of Datejust have seen changes, the core has remained true to the groundbreaking original, which was the first waterproof, self-winding watch with a date function. With the longest unbroken production of any model from Rolex, there is a glut of this model on the preowned market.

As the value of the Datejust watch has seen increases over the years, these models are also a good choice if you're looking to buy a watch as an investment. If you need more help with this, have a read our blog on what to know when buying a preowned watch for investment.

At Ramsdens, we sell high-quality luxury pre-owned watches for men and women. Our stock often includes a number of pre-owned Rolex Datejust models to choose from. All of our watches go through thorough checks to ensure their authenticity, so you can be sure you're buying a genuine Rolex Datejust with us.